Taxco- July 23, 2008

Taxco- City of Silver:

Jesus watching over the city of Taxco

We started our visit in a beautiful church in the center of town. The surrounding hills and valleys were filled with houses and businesses that are beautifully built with the red tiled roof, which contrast with the light colored walls, but what stood out was a huge statue of Jesus standing up on a hill with his arms outstretched towards you. It really is amazing that in Mexico there are constant reminders all around you to keep your heart and mind on God and family in the form of churches, statues and in the people around you, quite the opposite in the United States where one is constantly distracted from what is truly important in life.

The Santa Prisca Parish Church was a beautiful church and apparently on an endangered list for world monuments. I was not impressed with the gold that the Spaniards had used to adorn the church, financed by the local silver mines, but the wood was amazing. The wood was intricate and richly colored and the wall murals that were placed over archways were beautiful. I took pictures of wood, murals and the chubby little gold cherubs that my mom likes, As I sat listening to a tour guide explain the different statues and symbols in the huge filled wall at the front of the church, I was shocked when a casket was being carried up the aisle toward me. It took me a moment to realize that I was sitting in the front pews while a funeral was going on. I quickly headed out, but it was slow going as I was passing mourners that were following the casket. I felt so embarrassed that I was intruding. I couldn’t believe that all these other people: visitors, tours and tour guides and children selling Chiclets were all in there during what should have been a private moment.

Lilith with the children in Taxco

The view from the side door of the church.

Now we look for silver. We walked down several streets and stopped at a few vendors selling jewelry boxes (guess what for…) and wood utensils. Notice the baby in the hammock under the table- very cute. And it seemed like were walking forever up and down and then… we found a bathroom. I guess I hadn’t been paying attention because I thought we were looking for jewelry! Any way after the bathroom we did have one final climb and then down some stairs into a room filled with silver jewelry vendors. Little did we know that we had left someone in the bathroom? Poor Lilith, she did not find us, but she did find her way back to the van and to a cafe across the street from it. I wish she could have seen the room filled with silver jewelry.

Back to the silver jewelry…I could have spent hours in there. I wanted to go to each vendor and see what they had before I made any decisions, but everyone seemed to be in a hurry and then it started pouring. We all ran out of that little marketplace (I wish I had taken a picture), through the shoe store next door and up some stairs that were starting to resemble a waterfall. We went upstairs and sat down to eat and/or have coffee. But I couldn’t sit still I was too restless and I kept looking at a bracelet that I had bought and wishing that I had a necklace to go with it. I walked back over to the stairs, watching the water pouring down them considering if I should just try it. I decided against it momentarily and walked back and sat down with the others. That didn’t last very long. I went back and darted (carefully) back down the stairs, through the shoe store into the silver market. I went from vendor to vendor asking them if they had a necklace to match and no one did!! But I did find another set (necklace and bracelet) that I liked and found a few more small earrings (oh and a bracelet for my daughter- she prefers gold though). Then I went back up to see if I had been left, nope, everyone was still sitting down, so I looked around at some of the vendors that were over by the stairs. I still needed to find my son a wallet. No one had any leather products, except shoes, but I did find some pretty barrettes and headbands for my daughter. We all ran back to the van with me bringing up the rear like usual to find Lilith: coffee filled and waiting for us.

Las Grutas- July 23, 2008

Las Grutas

Las Grutas- the cavern near Taxco was very beautiful. People are taken down into the cavern in groups every hour. It costs about 42 pesos ($4.20 US). We waited in line for the tour to start and there were women and children trying to sell us these very colorful necklaces made from acorns. The caps of the acorn were separated and used as a hat and skirt for a little girl pendant at the bottom. It is pretty cute. I was told by Estela Roman (curandera and our traditional medicine teacher) that the colorful necklaces were to please the nature that we were going to encounter inside the caves the “aires” (winds and energies that are within). When we receive pleasure from nature we are to express our thanks. But, one of the women that were selling the necklaces told me that they were for our pictures. Apparently, they take pictures of you in the caves, just like on the rides at Universal Studios. I didn’t actually know where the pictures were taken, but when we came out of the cave later, there they were hanging on the wall. I don’t know how much they were selling them for and there were so many, I didn’t even want to try and find myself in all the photos.

Estela explaining about the "aires"

Entering Las Grutas

When you first approach and enter the mouth of the cave it has a very strong odor. I was told that it is due to the bats, but I didn’t see any. Of course, we were there an hour or so before 12 pm so nap time for them. The vendors were just getting set up as we walked along the path to the cave and they seemed to have an assortment of stuff that we had all seen at the numerous “mercados” that we have been to. One vendor was setting up seed necklaces and rock carvings and behind her was a little animal in a tree that looked like a cross between a raccoon and a possum. It was kind of cute. When I started taking pictures of it and asking her what it was called, the vendor pulled out some bread and handed me some. She told me to feed it to the “tejon.” I walked up to the wall with the bread and the tejon grabbed it quickly from me and moved off a ways to eat it. Later, when I came out of the caves there was a larger one nearer the entrance that was approaching some children looking to see if they had any food. The woman then said that it was the mother of the other ones (there were more now in the tree behind her). I then fed it some of my granola bar and this one took it very gently.

So, on to the caves… Walking down into the caves, there is a man made stairway and walkway and the cave appeared to be very light, but as you look further down you can see the path disappear into darkness. There were many people standing down in the cave listening to the tour guide and you would think that it would seem crowded, but looking down at the large group of people and seeing how they were dwarfed by the vast expanse of the cavern just added to the feeling that this was the start of an amazing experience. Our group followed behind the tour group and then later passed it. I couldn’t understand much of what the tour guide was saying anyway, but it must have been funny because there was lots of laughter. As we walked there was lights that were turned on and off by the tour guide. I took lots of pictures and some of them even came out without a flash when the accent lights were on, but sometimes I was so far behind the tour that I was plunged into darkness at the flick of a switch. I had forgotten to bring a flashlight. There was enough light to just see the walkway from the lights further up as we wound up and down in the cave. The first time it happened it scared me a little, but when I stopped to concentrate on the walkway I realized that I could “hear” the cave. I could hear water dripping and just barely hear the wind as it came and went and I actually felt more comfortable there alone (sort of alone) in the dark than I had with the light and the crowd of people around. The only downfall is I couldn’t get that feeling on camera. I could still hear voices in front of me and it never actually went totally quiet, but as I focused on the cave and the sound and feel of it, I felt safe and relaxed. It was very nice. I would have been perfectly happy sitting there waiting for all the voices to fade away.

Anyway, I had to catch up with my group. I always seem to be last one and Estela had asked her brother to be responsible for being last and he always had to wait for me (Sorry, Pavel). When we passed up the tour group it became more difficult for me to take pictures. I have an older digital camera and in darker environments I have to sit really still. I would actually sit down and brace my arms so as to keep the camera from moving and to let enough light in to actually see the cave. But when I stopped to take a picture, the tour group would swallow me up. Then I would try to weave my way through the crowd to get back up to the front. The walkway became narrower and narrower and when the tour guide would stop to talk, I struggled to get through the crowd.

After we circled around and started heading back Estela had us all stop and regroup. She wanted us to focus on what this place really meant and how we fit into the natural and spiritual world. It was really quite nice sitting in silence and hearing the other voices in the caves fade away. It gave you a chance to listen to your surroundings, listen to your body and listen to your head as Estela was softly guiding us to really focus on nature and to appreciate this unique experience. I loved it. I could feel the expanse of the cavern that we were in and let my mind and body soar. Truly amazing! It was very comforting to know that God was out there allowing me to feel the power, the beauty and the comfort of this creation. After a few thoughts from the group we headed back. It was a little different than the walk in, being a little rushed, but it was still nice. I would love to come back. For more information on these caves: www.showcaves.com/english/mx/showcaves/Cacahuamilpa.html and for more pictures: www.walkerphotographix.com/Las_Grutas_de_Cacahuamilpa/.

Coming out into the light once more

Ruta de Zapata July 16, 2008

Zapata breaking the chains of oppression

After the mercado we came back to pack up and go on the Zapata Route. We started at a museum, which was the site of his political headquarters. Next we went to where Zapata was assassinated. He was tricked into a meeting and was shot numerous times with machine guns while he attempted to flee by horseback. We met a wonderful man that was selling pictures of Zapata and quartz rocks that sang us a song about Zapata.

The museum at Zapata’s birthplace

From the beginning

Zapata’s party

Signing

Zapatistas taking the train

Lastly, we went to Zapata’s birth place Anencuilco. There was a museum with a beautiful mural “El Caudillo del Sur,” painted by Roberto Rodriguez Navarro dedicated in 2000. The mural depicts the chronology of the Mexican people from creation until after Zapata was killed. It starts on the far left corner with a tree that has a young boy from ancient times peering into the future. What he sees is the struggle with the Spaniards and the consequences of that conquest. He then watches as Zapata comes into the picture, appearing larger than life to break the chains and weight of oppression. The young boy then watches as Zapata writes the Plan de Ayala and as the Zapatistas fight for their rights. He then sees Zapata shot down on his horse by one of his opponents. The story moves to his funeral and those that mourned his death. The boy then sees the legacy that Zapata has left in the people that continue to fight the fight. This mural is truly amazing and the scene of his death displays the arch that where we had met the cantante (singer). Above the statue of Zapata and his horse is the arch that still displays the bullet holes as a reminder of what happened there.

Zapata wanted the land to be given back to the people and even worked to divide it up, but the government didn’t want to. When Zapata was killed, the president decided to go ahead and give back some of the land so that the people would not revolt and rise up in retaliation of Zapata’s assassination. They gave the land, but that was it. The plan was to include some financial support to help the people get started, but that part was not included. In the South, the land is largely in the hands of the people, but they are struggling to use it. Very interesting. I just read that other parts of Mexico (Zapata was in the south) are more recently fighting for their rights. I saw information about Zapatistas in Chiapas.

Learning a new language is not easy!

July 24, 2008: Speaking and Conversing in Spanish

            Listening, understanding and speaking in Spanish are very tiring for me. Occasionally, I find myself understanding without a lot of effort and some people are easier to understand than others. But often times I concentrate and try to grasp onto a few words here and there that I know and then interpret the rest, but it doesn’t always make sense. I struggle tremendously with trying to form correct sentences. It is very exhausting.  I search my mind trying to figure out how to say what I want to say and say it correctly. I feel like my mind is going a million miles a minute trying to search for the right verb and the right tense.  I mix up my past and future in my responses to others.

Shopping is pretty easy though. I can do numbers and ask shopping-type questions in the present tense. But for the most part, it is a struggle getting across what I want to say. Often what I really wanted to say goes unsaid. I just make do with what was understood, of what I did manage to say. I can understand some of what I read, if it is familiar words, but the health, plant and words that may not be taught in an American Spanish class make it a little difficult.

Acupuncture with magnets July 23, 2008

Guadalupe (Lilith, Stacy, Priscilla and I are staying with her in Temixco) was using acupuncture with magnets to relieve Priscilla’s allergies. She is trained and is training in alternative and traditional medicine. She is an acupuncturist. Guadalupe was using a pencil to mark and press tiny little magnets into Priscilla’s ear, the back of her neck and her face. When Priscilla was on the phone, I asked Guadalupe about each thing she had and what she was doing. She showed me the tiny little magnets that were on a strip of paper and she then started to put one on me, on my ear then she quickly asked me if I wanted it done. I asked what it was for and she said it is calming. She put two in my ear and then three on my neck and then she went back to work on Priscilla. I don’t know if it helped calm me, but it is interesting. I would like to learn more about it. I slept about the same, but I didn’t stay awake with my mind working on Spanish sentences or wake up way early like usual so maybe it did work.

Xochicalco

Xochicalco: July 24, 2008

Right now we are taking a bus (public transit) to Xochicalco, which stands for “The place of the house of flowers.” It was unexpected that we would be going today. The trip was supposed to be on Monday. I am so tired of going and going and just want to stop and rest, but as we are driving up I am getting a little more excited to be going. I will just have to rest up tomorrow, since we don’t need to be anywhere until 11 am and even then we are going to Guadalupe’s (our host mom) temescal for pampering. In typical Aztec style, the migrating, militaristic group came to a beautiful hill with lots of flowers, liked it, took it and called it Xochicalco : Xochi-flowers, Cal- house, Co- place. The place of the house of flowers. The pyramids of Xochicalco were already there when the Aztecs arrived, having long ago been abandoned by the original builders. The indigenous people that lived in the area were still using it as a trading center. Since it was in a central location, people came from all different directions to trade their goods. There is also a tunnel that leads to what many call the “Observatory”. This tunnel ends in a small room with a circular hole cut in the ceiling that goes all the way up to the surface. At different times of year and day the room lights up differently. We were there about mid day so there was an intense light coming straight down into the room, but because it was not at the solstice, that was all there was. Apparently, people come from all over on June 21^st to see the whole room light up.

All of the pyramid sites that we have been going to are all-high up, basically at the top of the hill and have the most amazing scenery. Perfect, beautiful locations, Xochicalco does not look as grand as Monte Alban or Teotihaucan, but there is more being excavated, maybe it will be even grander someday.

More about Mexico City July 13, 2008

When we walked across the plaza there were some dancers setting up areas for displaying items that they had made. Many were in the process of making beautiful head dresses made of feathers. Others were playing instruments and performing native dances. There were a few signs that advertised limpias and several people in my group experienced it. This was demonstrating how an indigenous culture could be in a modern world and still stay true to its roots. I was also told that others had integrated more into society, in terms of maintaining a successful business, but still maintained a strong cultural identity in their dress and beliefs.

Tenochtitlan (Mexico City)

The original city

One of the many rooms being excavated

Mexico City was originally an artificial island built on Lake Texcoco by the Aztecs. It was called Tenochtitlan. The Aztecs were able to keep it from flooding by building dams, canals and levees. The lake was actually salty, but the Aztecs built a system of canals to bring in fresh water from the surrounding freshwater rivers and streams. I have several pictures of a replica of how Tenochtitlan had been laid out. What is ironic or call it karma, when the Spanairds destroyed the Aztec city and built their own on the ruins, they also destroyed the dams that kept the city from flooding. They had major problems with this. They drained the lake with tunnels and channels. Templo Mayor is the ruins of the city.

July 14, 2008

Hi

Today we played a game Trivial Pursuit in Spanish “Maraton”. It was so hard to do, but it was still very fun. We always laugh so much in our class. We had a class cultural lesson about the more recent history of Mexico. We are supposed to go to Xochicalco soon. We will be going along the Route of Zapata also tomorrow or the next day to see the history that we are learning.

Lo Templo Mayor de Mexico City

We went to the Museo de Lo Templo Mayor in Mexico City. It is an on-going archeological excavation site and museum. It was really amazing to see a current excavation and to know that the structure has been around since the early 1400’s. You first walk through and over the ruins and then you go into the museum where the actual stone sculptures are. Outside they have replicas where the originals were and how they were found. I took lots of pictures.

The sculptures and art were amazing. One could still see some of the original colorful paint that was used. They used a protectant to make the colors last. We walked around the ruins on a walkway that still allowed visitors to view the architectural detail without damaging them. These current excavated discoveries are very recent, from the 1970’s. These ongoing discoveries provide a peek into the past and allow visitors and residents alike to reconnect with world and cultural history and to make it personally significant. It is a strong background culture to tap into. It is really very amazing to see real history.

ArcheologistsTemplo Mayor artifact

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